5 of the best pintxos bars in San Sebastian

 

One of the highlights of our latest trip to Spain was our time in San Sebastián and, more specifically, our pintxos tour with Iñigo Tames (highly recommended) from San Sebastián Food, a culinary enterprise based in the basement of the Hotel Maria Cristina where we stayed.

Pintxos – if you’re not already familiar – is the Basque equivalent of tapas. Some may tell you that the difference is that you pay for pintxos whereas tapas are free, but this isn’t correct. Others will say that pinxtos are always pierced with a toothpick or similar, but this isn’t always the case either. Suffice to say, they are small snacks typically eaten with drinks before a meal. It’s a relaxed way of eating out with friends and tends to be very social, and San Sebastián is famous for its pinxos culture. And, with the help of Iñigo Tames, we sampled five of the best pintxos bars in the city and share them with you here, with tips on what to eat and drink at each.

Borda Berri, Fermín Calbetón Street

Borda Berri is a lovely little pintxos bar hidden in away in one of San Sebastian’s many backstreets, with a chalk board listing pintxos made to order, in addition to those already on display.

bordaberri

Inside, the bar is busy and the walls painted yellow, adorned with strings of garlic and various photographs.

bordaberri-inside

Try the gazpacho if you’re after something refreshing or the Idiazabal sheep-cheese rissoni if you enjoy smoked flavours.

bordaberri-gazpacho

For me, the highlight was most definitely the pulpo (octopus) – deliciously tender. Also try the risotto made with orso pasta and smoked cheese, and the pork ribs kebab.

bordaberri-octopus

To drink, try the local Txakoli wine – it’s a very young white wine, harvested in October, ready in February; the grapes are grown near ocean giving it a certain saltiness and the drink poured from high up to in order to aerate it. Our children enjoyed drinking mosto, a kind of grape juice that’s made from pressed grapes before the wine-making process begins.

Ganbara, San Jerónimo Street

Opened in 1984, Ganbara has developed its reputation as a firm favourite in San Sebastian and is a family-run concern led by Jose and Amaia Ignacio, and their daughter, Nagore.

ganbara

ganbara-inside

Try the spider crab tartlets (tartaleta de txangurro). The crab is flambéed in cognac, put back in the pastry shell and then back in the oven to make them crispy.

ganbara-spider-crab-tartlets

Also good to try are the guindillas, a favourite chilli of the region, and the ojaldre con chistorra (sausage roll).

ganbara-guindillas

And fun to try are the percebes (gooseneck barnacles) but beware, they do have a tendency to squirt salty water in random directions when you attempt to twist them free! They are considered to be quite a delicacy.

ganbara-percebes

An excellent choice of wine here is Chivite - a fruity Chardonnay white wine from Navarra.

Gandarias, 31 de Agosto Street

Popular with locals and tourists alike, Gandarias is a traditional pintxos bar with an avid following.

gandarias-jatetxea

It was packed inside!

gandarias-jatetxea-inside

They do the most delicious salted sirloin and green pepper pintxos on small slices of bread (solomillo).

gandarias-jatetxea-sirloin

And a wonderful meat platter with high quality chorizo and bellota (acorn-fed) Iberian ham.

gandarias-jatetxea-chorizo-and-ham

Wash these meats down with the chocolatey Trus Roble red wine, kept in American oak barrels, from the Ribera del Duero region, about 3-4 hours from San Sebastian.

La Cuchara de San Telmo, 31 de Agosto Street

Located directly opposite the San Tulmo Museum, La Cuchara de San Tulmo is led by former sous chefs from Ferran Adrià’s El Bulli.

la-cuchara-de-san-tulmo

Like all the good pintxos bars in the city, this one is busy, too…

la-cuchara-de-san-tulmo-inside

The item to try here is the carrilleras de ternera (veal cheeks) – amazingly tender and so delicious! It goes well with Gloriosa, a gutsy Rioja red wine - temperanillo grape and crianza (aged for half a year in the barrel, and at least a year in the bottle).

la-cuchara-de-san-tulmo-veal-cheeks

Wander around the outside of the bar and you will find you can sea a hive of activity going on inside the kitchen.

la-cuchara-de-san-tulmo-kitchen

La Viña, 31 de Agosto Street

Finally, don’t miss out on La Viña for the best cheesecake in town! Although you can get other pintxos here, it’s the cheesecake that this place is famous for.

la-vina

la-vina-inside

Possibly the best cheesecake in the world!

la-vina-cheesecakes

Enjoy with the sweet sherry wine, Pedro Ximénez – you can even pour a little of this over your cheesecake for an extra treat!

la-vina-cheesecake

Disclosure: Our tour was hosted by San Sebastian Food and formed part of a trip sponsored by Brittany Ferries.

Comments (2)

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  1. Dave says:

    Wow, this article has brought back great memories of a foodie and cycling trip to Donostia/San Sebastian. It looks like I will need to go back as I never tried the cheescake at La Viña. Is it really as good as it looks?

  2. Paul Johnson says:

    Yes, it is…!! Although I think the sweet wine on top really made it! :)

 
 
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