Fiordland – one of the world’s most untamed wildernesses

I just completed one of the most unique cruises through some of New Zealand’s most sensational scenery. It was a once-in-a-lifetime experience for me. There are places in this world that render you speechless, not because I have nothing to say, but because the landscape impresses me more than my own words ever could.

I had the chance to explore the vast, still-virgin wilderness of  New Zealand’s southwestern corner, Fiordland National Park. And honestly, I don’t think there can be a better way of experiencing it than on a 6-day overnight cruise with Fiordland Discovery aboard their boutique ship, the Fiordland Jewel, exploring Doubtful Sound, Breaksea Sound, and Dusky Sound.

A journey into the remote outdoors

From the day you leave, with a boat crossing of Lake Manapōuri, a coach across the remote Wilmot Pass, or a helicopter, you expect something special. We did the helicopter transfer, which is quite an experience in itself. The fast and changing views over Fiordland’s towering peaks and seas below you turn fast into a growing sense of awe.

It felt like we had the whole place to ourselves! The friendly welcome by the crew of the Fiordland Jewel made us feel at ease and in good hands. We felt straight away a sense of them being knowledgeable, warm, and deeply connected to this land and sea. We felt that the crew offered an intimate and very personalised experience. With the limited number of passengers aboard our vessel, we had plenty of opportunity to ask questions and interact with the knowledgeable captain and staff.

Every evening, we learned about the next day’s adventures, what activity options we would have, and our captain spoke with passion about the local history and the special environment surrounding us.

Stay on a floating lodge in pure wilderness

The Fiordland Jewel is a purpose-built catamaran designed for comfort, adventure, and intimacy. I noticed that every detail was thought of, even down to climate-controlled cabins with huge windows at the foot of the beds which gave us uninterrupted views of wherever we were docked or sailing through.

We loved waking up every morning with these spectacular views of the sea and mountains. Thanks to the amount of rain here in Fiordland, the area displays impressive waterfalls and a dense ancient rainforest for you to enjoy.

After a day of exploration, we joined others in the lounge with a glass of premium New Zealand wine, to watch amazing sunsets or enjoyed a top-deck hot tub to see the southern stars.

Aboard the vessel, each night ends with a three-course meal, prepared by an amazing chef, which I thought could truly rival any fine restaurant. The menu features the very best of what the land and sea has to offer from New Zealand. We appreciated locally caught fresh blue cod, Southern rock lobster from their own crayfish traps, the crew even went for a dive and fetched a tender Paua (Abalone) for a taste.

Hike where not many have set foot before

Our ship ventured into the isolated Dusky Sound and enormous Doubtful Sound, the deepest and one of the least-visited of the 14 fiords of New Zealand. We paddled in solo kayaks through quiet coves; some members of our group opted for guided tender boat tours into hidden bays.

As soon as we landed on many remote beaches, it was a relatively pure world we had entered. As much time as we spent walking through primeval wooded valleys and hiking up remote alpine lakes, many times we followed some rivers with fast-moving water supplied by glaciers close at hand. At all times, our guides protected us from harm and provided information.

The landscape is rough from the regular rain, but ideal for people like me who love to see off the beaten path environments. These are not groomed trails, and not many people will ever set foot here; the landscape remains untouched for centuries. Our guides engaged us with fascinating tales of those first explorers of this remote wilderness, our native Māori culture, and early European exploration during the course.

Dusky Sound is steeped in history, ranging from the voyages of Captain Cook during the 1770s through to the first European house, constructed at Luncheon Cove by the sealers. This area also witnessed the building of the first European ship in New Zealand and hosted the country’s first bird sanctuary, so it is a place of remarkable cultural and environmental significance.

Alone with nature

There is so much more than rare species and beautiful geology to explore at this World Heritage Site. Our boat was shadowed on many occasions by Grey Bottle Nose Dolphins, and when anchoring, there were many New Zealand Fur seals and pups, which are born at any time of year.

For more than 60 million years, the geographical isolation of New Zealand had provided a refuge for a wide variety of bird species. The bird life of New Zealand had developed and evolved without the ability to fly until, when man appeared on the scene with his animals, the flightless birds were knocked off their perches by newly introduced predators. Only 16 species of flightless birds exist nowadays in New Zealand.

A large number of the rarest and endangered species exist here on our very own Fiordland. We were lucky to sight a Kea, the world’s only mountain parrot, Bellbirds and the rarest Fiordland crested penguin.

Fiordland is known for some of the highest levels of endemic plant life of any temperate or alpine area in the world. With high rainfall, cliffs, and mountain ranges, it creates diverse and verdant habitats that sustain nearly 700 plants unique primarily to the ecoregion.

Discover the unique world of Fiordland waterways

Fiordland’s display doesn’t end at the mountains or on top of the waterline. Known as one of the most unique dive sites in the world, the Fiordland National Park, with its 10 large Marine Reserves, where all marine life is protected, is home to the deep-water emergent black coral trees. Almost all of the fiords’ marine life lives within 40 metres (131 feet) of the surface. 

The calm, clear and relatively warm waters are the ideal home for sponges, corals and fish of subtropical, cool water and deep-water varieties. I am not a diver, but a mother and daughter on our voyage jumped at the chance to explore this very unique underwater world.

Why this journey will stay with you…embrace the silence

Many speak of Fiordland as a spiritual experience, and I totally understand why. The silence here is profound. I found myself a few times overcome by my own emotions, and feeling blessed to experience a place like this. My fear of leaving behind a world that is far too digitally connected, full of new messages at every minute of the day, was unnecessary, and a welcomed experience.

With no phone signal and no distractions, you are fully present and notice things you might not otherwise do. The vast scale of the landscape humbled me. The sometimes torrential rain or the strong winds did not bother us; the world we saw was magical and made us feel in awe of what our planet had created. As one other guest perfectly put it: “It felt like we had the whole world to ourselves.”

This cruise is an opportunity to slow down. Beyond the comfort and the cuisine, the wildlife and waterfalls, this journey is about connection to a place, its history, and to something bigger than yourself. After my six-day cruise in the wilderness of Fiordland National Park, i came away  not just with photos and new friends, but with a feeling of interconnectedness. Fiordland Discovery is a family business, with skipper Rob Swale having built the Fiordland Jewel himself. A love for the region is nothing short of contagious.