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Review: The King’s Arms, Hawkshead, Lake District, UK

A haven for locals and visitors for generations, The King’s Arms takes centre stage in the Lake District village of Hawkshead. The whitewashed walls of this 17th-century coaching inn are a picture postcard scene, whatever the Cumbrian weather happens to throw at you. And, after an extensive, sympathetic renovation, the inn reopened its doors in August of this year, stepping into a new chapter that honours its past while making room for contemporary comfort.

The refurbishment is unapologetically local in spirit — led by Cumbrian tradespeople, respectful of oak beams, stone fireplaces and slate floors, and shepherded by owner Jo McGowan, it’s given Hawkshead a pub that truly belongs to the community. The result is classic and calm: a place that looks traditional in photos but feels fresh in practice.

The welcome

Part of Hawkshead’s charm is that its centre has been largely car-free for over 50 years now. Most visitors make use of the pay-and-display car park on the edge of the village. We’d learned in advance that parking permits are issued to guests staying at The King’s Arms for the car park just opposite, so popped in to collect one before heading to the car park. We were warmly greeted on arrival at the bar, offered a permit and invited to leave our luggage while we parked. We were travelling lightly so that wasn’t necessary but were kindly offered help once again when returning, before being personally shown to our room.

The room

The King’s Arms now houses eight individually designed en suite bedrooms, each with a regal name and interiors that nod to traditional country style while delivering modern comfort. Three rooms — Charles, William and George — were available at the time of our stay, with the remaining five – Arthur, Edward, Henry, James and Richard – due to open around the busy Hawkshead Christmas Fair weekend. Crisp linen, Nespresso machines, Smart TVs and local toiletries are provided as standard — small attentions that make a difference after a day exploring the fells.

We stayed in Charles, swathed in colour and with tasteful period pieces, from the furniture to Vanity Fair-style caricatures on the walls. One of the highlights of the room is a generous window seat which looks out over the village square, where you can relax, read a book, check out a map for the day that lies ahead, or simply watch the world go by.

The bathroom

Compact and bright, the en-suite makes efficient use of the available space. There’s a powerful drench shower with a water pressure that could easily outpace the wildest of Lake District storms, basin and WC.

The toiletries are locally sourced from Pure Lakes, a Far Sawrey maker of handmade, natural skincare that has made its way into most of the county’s luxury hotels (see their soap-making course in our ‘10 things to do on a rainy day in the Lake District‘ post).

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The facilities

The rebooted King’s Arms wears its local credentials proudly. It’s not a tied house, which means the bar can showcase rotating brews from Cumbrian breweries — a particularly good decision for a pub in the heart of the Lakes. A regular pour is Loweswater Gold from Cumbrian Ales, a past winner of CAMRA’s cask version of Champion Golden Ale of Britain, whilst other guest ales appear on rotational basis.

Food-wise, Head Chef Ross Bowman has created a menu built from the nearest ingredients, supporting farmers, butchers, dairies and producers within Cumbria.

Expect pub classics elevated by technique and quality.

We ate their both evenings, sampling a generous selection of dishes, including starters of poached smoked haddock with saffron velouté and hand-baked focaccia, a perfectly seasoned Cumberland scotch egg with homemade brown sauce, and delicate king scallops with kashmiri sauce and chive oil.

Mains were precisely what you want in a country inn: a beef brisket pie with an Eden Sunset Cheddar crust, slow-cooked beef cheek with parsnip purée, and a chicken ballotine served with corn purée and chorizo relish.

For dessert, try the Cranachan cheesecake, oaty snap biscuit, raspberry meringue and raspberry gelato.

Breakfast is ordered the evening before with options from a full cooked breakfast to Eggs Hemingway or lighter plates.

We had an interesting chat with a member of the front of house team who commented that extending breakfast beyond just residents was a sensitive issue, as they don’t want to complete with the village’s much-loved cafés, because it’s essential that all businesses are able to co-exist symbiotically, with each having their own role that supports Hawkshead’s delicate ecosystem.

The location

Hawkshead is one of those Lake District villages that seems to have been built from an illustrator’s happiest idea of England: narrow lanes, whitewashed cottages, and a scattering of independent shops and tea rooms. The Wordsworth connections add a literary air; wander away from the square and you’ll find tearooms, craft shops, the church, and, conveniently, the Hawkshead Relish Company practically next door and Ann Tyson’s around the corner.

The King’s Arms is perfectly placed for short riverside rambles, Tarn Hows, and longer fell walks. We had planned to walk Black Fell and revisit Tarn Hows, but the hills were grey, wet and visibility was poor — Lake District weather doing exactly what it’s meant to. Plan B saw us head for Skelwith Bridge which we take a short riverside walk to Skelwith Force, which was showcasing the full force of nature’s power.

We stopped at Chesters by the River, a vegetarian café, for a cauliflower bhaji sandwich with mint & coriander chutney and tamarind chutney, and a sticky carrot cake to follow – shared so that we could still enjoy another lovely meal at The King’s Arms in the evening

Other nice touches

At the King’s Arms, there are lots of small things that collectively show they care about creating a relaxed, informal atmosphere – from the tea and coffee welcome tray, complimentary water and homemade biscuits on arrival, or the selection of board games in the bar (chess, backgammon, Connect 4).

But there are other more structural elements that also make a difference – original features have been retained where it counts: exposed beams, a cosy stone fireplace and even an old well at the back door — details that ensure the inn keeps its sense of history.

The cost

Rooms start from £112 per night out of season to about £175 per night in high season.

The best bit

The King’s Arms manages to find that happy middle ground of being both polished and unpretentious. Well-made food, considered interiors, and a bar that knows its ales — yet also a place where you can show up with muddy boots and still be made to feel entirely welcome. It’s hospitality without airs and graces – comfort that doesn’t feel too stuffy. That extraordinary balance is something the inn has seemingly achieved with ease, but has no doubt not been without a lot of hard work.

The final verdict

The King’s Arms’ reopening marks a tidy, well-crafted new chapter for an already beloved Hawkshead institution. The renovation is demonstrably respectful — original features retained, local craftspeople engaged, and sensible contemporary comforts introduced. Whether you’re popping in for a pint, calling for dinner, or staying the night, this gem provides an authentically Lakeland experience: warm, local and very much part of the village’s social fabric.

Dislcosure: Our stay was sponsored by The Kings Arms.

Paul Johnson

Paul Johnson is Editor of A Luxury Travel Blog and has worked in the travel industry for more than 30 years. He is Winner of the Innovations in Travel ‘Best Travel Influencer’ Award from WIRED magazine. In addition to other awards, the blog has also been voted “one of the world’s best travel blogs” and “best for luxury” by The Telegraph.

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