Review: CroisiAfrica’s Safari Cruise  – Days 5 to 9 

We are halfway through CroisiAfrica‘s Safari Cruise taking in Johannesburg, the Chobe and Zambezi rivers, a cruise on Lake Kariba and the grand finale of the Victoria Falls. Already our initial meeting point in Johannesburg and our urban tour of the geographical legacy of apartheid seems long ago. As does the scheduled Airlink flight from Johannesburg’s OR Tampo airport to the quieter airport of Kasane, Botswana. 

Once again, we have little to worry about as we pack our bags after three nights at the Casades Island Safari Lodge in Namibia’s portion of the Zambezi. Leaving our bags outside our bungalow doors, Lodge staff take them to a boat for the transfer to Kasane airport, via a water safari along the Chobe River, for the next leg of our journey. 

Day 5 – The African Dream, Lake Kariba, Zimbabwe

Few of us had experienced a flight like this. No boarding card, no flight number, no air hostess. When the 12-seater Cessna Explorer was ready, we were invited to walk out to the plane. In-flight catering consisted of a bottle of water given to us before the pilot delivered the safety briefing on the runway. 

We flew at around 500 feet for 20 minutes before touching down at Victoria Falls airport for Zimbabwean immigration formalities. Then it was another 80 minutes flight, north over the shores of Lake Kariba, to a red-clay landing strip in the Matusadona National Park. Two safari bakkies waited. A large rug served as the baggage carousel. 

Essentially, the 45-minute transfer to the African Dream, moored on Lake Kariba, is a game drive; concluding with elephants grazing in front of a setting sun. 

Once again, our bags are quickly transferred to our cabin as we are given a welcome drink, told the dinner menu and briefed on the following day’s programme. 

Day 6 – Lake Kariba water safari 

Transferring to a smaller boat, we leave the 16-berth African Dream for our water safari, cruising through the spectral remains of mopone trees, named after the butterflies that the trees’ leafs resemble. Underwater since the lake was completed in 1959, to provide hydro-electric power for both Zambia and Zimbabwe, the trees seem to be turning to stone: still sufficiently sturdy for fish eagles, who appear on Zimbabwe’s flag, to nest in. 

Although an accurate census is difficult, it is estimated that Lake Kariba is home to around 10,000 crocodiles. The first one we see doesn’t impress, “Perhaps just big enough for a belt,” says Vanessa our guide. 

“50,000 people had to be relocated,” Vanessa tells us. “And the lake filled faster than anticipated, leaving animals stranded on shrinking islands. Operation Noah was launched to rescue them. Over 6,000 creatures were saved,” she says, as we cruise past Fothergill Island, named after Rupert Fothergill who managed Operation Noah. 

We return to the African Dream for a three course lunch, wine and a welcome snooze on the sun-deck. Soon the sun is sinking and we take to the tender again for sundowners and a spot of fishing that reels in brown squeakers before we release them back into the lake. 

Day 7 – Matusadona game drive 

After an early breakfast we climb into the safari vehicles and head into the Matusadona game park. Soon driver Richard stops to show us moth larvae on the bleached horns of an antelope’s skull. Similarly he points out bleached white hyena dung, its high bone content creating a good supply of calcium for tortoises’ shells and eggs. “Nothing is wasted in the bush.”

We pause again to photograph a congress of vultures, sat waiting for a sniff of blood. Transitioning the collective noun, they are hoping to become a wake of vultures feeding on carrion. 

“Vultures, hyenas and marabou storks, three of the Ugly Five, are actually signs of a healthy bush. They keep it clean.” Richard says pointing to a white skull. 

He reaches for his binoculars to see where the vultures are heading. Then spots fresh lion-tracks. Funally, we view a pride of lions contentedly feasting on a waterbuck. 

After lunch back on the African Dream, a preview of the rains arrives early, Vanessa gives us a summary of Zimbabwe’s history and hosts farewell cocktails on board the African Dream, rather than heading out for a sundowner. Crew and guests joyously dance together to the beat of the drums to celebrate our final night aboard.

Day 8 – Victoria Falls 

An early disembarkation from the African Queen takes us around a dozen miles to the Lake Kariba dam and a presentation on its history. 

From Kariba’s small and uncrowded airport, it is a Cessna flight to Victoria Falls airport. A late morning arrival gives us time for a Zambezi lunch cruise. 

This could be Zambezi-on-Thames with grand houses and hotels preventing immaculate waterfronts  – if it were not for the crocodiles, elephants and hippos. 

For adventurous eaters, the menu gives the option of crocodile skewers, ostrich salad and an Amarulla cheesecake. As with every lunch and dinner on the trip, the selection of accompanying wines could not be faulted.

After we have checked into the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, I opt for a final game drive in search of rhino. I am joined by one other guest who shows me film of her helicopter flight over the falls. The rest of the party are grateful to relax by the pool. 

We jolt through 6,000 hectares of private game reserve in search of the 17 rhino who make up a thriving conservation project that began in 2006 with just six rhino. 

Rhinos are elusive, particularly the younger creatures. Nixon, our driver has a decade of experience. He senses that the oldest female, age 40, will be on her way to the waterhole. He cuts the engine. Eventually he hears her browsing and crunching twigs. After much manoeuvring we get brief glimpses and snatch photos. Time to celebrate with a sundowner. 

Day 9 – Victoria Falls 

Another early start, breakfasting whilst elephants drink at the waterhole below. 

A coach takes us to the Victoria Falls for one of the wonders of the natural world. Our guide Moses dishes out ponchos for a walk through the rainforest watered by spray from the falls, leading us to the best spots for photographs. 

By 10 o’clock we are back at the Safari Lodge for check out and transfer to Victoria Falls airport. Most guests have booked a flight south to Johannesburg and then their flights back to Europe. 

The cost 

2027 prices for an 11-night safari cruise start from £6,561 per person excluding international flights. Price includes a four-night cruise and a four-night lodge-stay with all meals and drinks, overnights in Johannesburg and Victoria Falls, the lunch cruise on the Zambezi, domestic flight between Johannesburg and Kasane, excursions and game drives and some gratuities. Visit  www.croisieurope.co.uk for more details. 

The final verdict 

Even though many of the party were exceptionally well-travelled, many said that it was the best travel experience of their lifetime. Visiting in the dry season of September brought plentiful wildlife sightings – and no mosquitoes – but the Victoria Falls were a little underpowered. At the final farewell there was a reluctance to leave Croisi’s care and head for the airport, though it had been an intense and action-packed nine days. 

Disclosure: Our trip was sponsored by CroisiAfrica.