· · · · · · · · · · ·

Special feature: The Black Swan, Helmsley, North Yorkshire, UK

We had called in at The Black Swan on our last visit to Helmsley – just for a drink – but on a recent visit to this market town had the opportunity to both stay and dine there. There is no mistaking this historic coaching inn at one end of Helmsley’s market place – it is such a distinctive building that the words ‘Black’ and ‘Swan’ need not even feature on the signage. The Black Swan The building has a rich history with elements from Tudor, Eizabethan and Georgian times, but today it has been transformed into a boutique hotel with more than 40 rooms, a restaurant and thriving tearooms. We were staying in Room 43 – a superior room towards the rear of the building. The Black Swan Helmsley bedroom The room was brightly – but tastefully – decorated, with an old style (working!) telephone at the bedside, TV, tea and coffee making facilities, en suite bathroom with Molton Brown toiletries, and ample space to accommodate a sofa and writing desk. This was our wedding anniversary so it was a nice touch to also find a card to recognise the occasion. The Black Swan Helmsley bedroom A highlight of any stay at The Black Swan is the food and so we dined there on two evenings – once enjoying the Daily Dinner Menu and on another night the 6-course Tasting Menu. They suggest you allow at least 2 hours for the latter – but we would recommend at least 3 – and a very light lunch earlier in the day is most definitely in order, too! For those looking for something simpler and a little less formal, there is the option to choose from the Market Menu. The restaurant holds 2 AA Rosettes and is led by Australian-born Head Chef Paul Peters. Pictured here is the Waterford House Farm Beef – beef sirloin, pearl barley, watercress, horseradish, trompette mushrooms, black garlic and a red wine just – to give you an idea of the quality of the dishes and presentation, but I’ll return to the food shortly. The Black Swan beef dish Helmsley is a very pretty  town and lies close to the heart of the 500 square mile North York Moors National Park. There are lots of upmarket gift shops, clothing and jewellery outlets, galleries, quaint cafés, and a lovely atmosphere. You are regularly reminded that you are in a rural community as tractors frequently drive through the streets, and the shopkeepers really go to an effort to ensure the place looks beautiful with lots of colour from hanging baskets and window boxes. Flowers in Helmsley After exploring the town centre, we went for a wander past Helsmsley Castle and towards Helmsley Walled Garden which was built back in 1758 to provide fruit, vegetables and flowers for the Feversham family. Here you will find a vibrant planting scheme offers a wonderful spectacle of flowers and colour. The garden covers 5 acres and there is a shop on site should you wish to take a few samples home with you. Helmsley Walled Garden It was then back to The Black Swan for afternoon tea, voted ‘Tearoom of Excellence’ in 2013 for the third consecutive year, and ‘Top Tea Place 2010’, where there are 20 types of tea on the menu. The Black Swan Helmsley tearooms As you can see, afternoon tea here is quite a treat!  Pictured here you can see (from left to right); top: banoffee pie, lemon posset with raspberry coulis, chocolate and white chocolate layer cake, rose and strawberry macaroon; bottom: egg mayonnaise sandwich, smoked salmon and cucumber sandwich, avocado, brie and sunblushed tomato sandwich, ham and cream cheese sandwich.  And of course afternoon tea wouldn’t be complete without a couple of scones, too! Black Swan afternoon tea Knowing that we had a 6-course dinner ahead of us in the evening, we’d skipped lunch and had an afternoon tea between us (rather than one each) and then chose to run off the calories in anticipation, with a jog to Rievaulx Abbey and beyond, and back. Jogging to Rievaulx Abbey As well as this beautiful former Cistercian abbey, there are lots of other things to see and do in the area. Nearby is the 18th Century mansion and landscaped gardens of Dunscombe Park, the International Centre for Birds of Prey, Castle Howard at Hovingham, Malton Museum and Rydale Museum to mention a few. Pickering is worth a visit if you’re a railway enthusiast and places such as Thirsk, Whitby and York are within a short drive. For those who enjoy the outdoors, there is clay pigeon shooting and a very popular shooting season. Just half an hour away is Dalby Forest – great for any keen cyclists wanting to explore the route of the UCI Cross Country World Mountain Bike Championship. After our run, we went to the garden for a little liquid refreshment and took the opportunity to delay our dining time by an hour. The gardens are at the rear of the hotel, very secluded and open to residents. The Black Swan Helmsley garden Once evening came, it was time for the formal 6-course dinner and we opted also for the optional beverage pairing. I’m going to let the food do the talking here – that, I think it’s fair to say, is the highlight of any stay at The Black Swan – and simply let you browse the descriptions and photographs.  Our favourite was the lamb but, for the full experience, you need to go and enjoy a meal there for yourself. Gazpacho??!! – Tomato Consommé, Pepper Confetti, Black Olive, Cucumber, Jerez Vinegar Paired with Greco – Feudo Dei Barone, Calabria 2011 The Black Swan Helmsley gazpacho Piggy in a Garden – Pressing of Local Ham Hock, Black Pudding, Baby Vegetables, Quails Egg, Soft Herbs Paired with Riesling – Kreuznacher, Nahe, Germany 2011 The Black Swan Helmsley piggy in the garden Sea Bream – Pan Fried, Parmesan Gnocchi, Chervil, Samphire, Baby Leeks, Smoked Chicken Paired with Pinot Gris Rose – Saint Clair, Marlborough 2012 The Black Swan Helmsley sea bream Waterford House Farm Lamb – Rump and Shoulder, Artichoke, Cabbage, Wild Mushroom, Date, Rosemary Paired with St Chinian – Gerard Bertrand, Southern France 2010 The Black Swan Helmsley lamb Pistachio – Flavours and Textures of Pistachio, Cherry Sorbet, Olive Oil Paired with Black Muscat – Quady Winery, California 2011 The Black Swan Helmsley pistachio We passed on the cheese course at the end – apparently around 50% of diners do – feeling more than content with what we had already had. The 50% that are able to continue on may be interested to know that, from September, The Black Swan will be offering a new 10 course tasting menu.

Paul Johnson

Paul Johnson is Editor of A Luxury Travel Blog and has worked in the travel industry for more than 30 years. He is Winner of the Innovations in Travel ‘Best Travel Influencer’ Award from WIRED magazine. In addition to other awards, the blog has also been voted “one of the world’s best travel blogs” and “best for luxury” by The Daily Telegraph.

Did you enjoy this article?

Receive similar content direct to your inbox.

One Comment

  1. First I want to thank you for sharing this excellent and enticing travel post. I love how you created an organize pallete of pictures and how you made me drool with the foods.

    How I wish I could travel with you one time.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *