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Exploring the Isle of Skye and the Highlands with Heart of Scotland Tours
No visit to Scotland can be complete without a few days in the Highlands. A place of rare beauty, the Scottish Highlands are famous as the home of Loch Ness and the Isle of Skye. However, getting to Loch Ness and Skye from major cities such as Edinburgh can be complicated. Although some public transportation options are available to get to Skye, exploring the Isle requires renting a vehicle. While on the Isle, you would need to navigate narrow one-lane, two-directional roads. These roads can wash out in inclement weather – a common occurrence on Skye. With these logistical difficulties in mind, many travelers choose to take a luxury 3 day Isle of Skye and the Highlands tour instead. One of the most luxurious options for a 3 day Skye and the Highlands tour is the Heart of Scotland tour company.
Day 1
Although you can explore Skye on a larger tour bus, I opt for the more luxurious 16 seater van option with the Heart of Scotland. “The wee red bus” is more intimate and flexible. We can make unscheduled stops and drive to places larger buses can’t. This added flexibility is important on an island where most roads are only one lane but the traffic goes two ways.
My guide’s name is Kevin. He is a life long resident of Skye and a prominent member of the MacLeod clan, one of Skye’s oldest clan families.
“Scotland is divided into two parts”, Kevin says as we begin the journey out of Edinburgh. “The Highlands and the Lowlands.” I learn that the two areas are different geographically and culturally. In fact, they were always different because the country of Scotland was formed when two ancient continents collided millions of years ago. One continent became the highlands – the other, the lowlands. This explains the change in topography and nature.
Queensferry
Our first stop is the small town of Queensferry. “Here, you’ll see three bridges,” Kevin says. “Built in the 19th, 20th and the 21st centuries respectively. Each a marvel of engineering, in their day.” Established in the 11th century, the first crossing here served to connect the lowlands to the kingdom of Fife. One of the bridges, called the Forth Bridge, was built 125 years ago and today is a UNESCO heritage site. We drive over the middle bridge, open only to buses and vans.
Dunkeld Cathedral and town
Next, we approach the picturesque village of Dunkeld. Centered around Cathedral Church of Dunkeld, this 8th-century village is the first official stop of the day. The Cathedral, constructed in a mixture of Gothic and Norman styles and build over three centuries in the middle ages. The town, charming and sparking is exactly what you might picture when you hear the phrase “traditional Scottish village.” Afterward, we proceed further into the highlands over narrow lanes into the Cairngorms National Park. We drive along the giant Loch Laggan and pause for lunch.
Eilean Donan Castle
As we approach Eilean Donan Castle, the imposing structure towers over the landscape around it. “Build on a site of a medieval castle, this is a clever one-hundred-year-old reconstruction,” Kevin tells the group on the wee red bus. “Castles that were continuously occupied were continuously updated. But Eilean Donan is frozen in time – around the 13th century.” Clever it is indeed. The Castle is also famous. Used as a backdrop for many famous movies – from Elizabeth to the Highlander, the Eilean Donon Castle may be one of the most famous images in Scotland. And touring Elean Donan is like stepping back in time. I found it very different from the modern luxury I would experience in the Dunfield Castle on Day 2 of the Heart of Scotland Isle of Skye tour.
Portree
After a few hours, we approach the Skye bridge – our path to the beautiful misty island, Isle of Skye. We pass the enormous Cuillin mountains and arrive in the colorful and quaint fishing village of Portree. Although accommodations can be hard to come by in Portree, Heart of Scotland takes care of all the arrangments. Kevin drives each one of my fellow travelers their hotel or bed and breakfast and during the long northern evening, we explore Portree.
Day 2
We spend day two exploring the Isle of Skye. It turns out the Isle of Skye’s nickname – the Misty Island, is well earned. Day two on Skye greeted us with relentless mist and occasional rain. Dressed for the weather, I was quite comfortable in the wee red bus – and grateful I didn’t need to navigate the narrow mountain roads. My photographs from the day look like something out of a fairy tale. Covered in mist, on a green backdrop, the romance of Skye can be found in any weather.
Kilt Rock Viewpoint
We start our day in the majestic Kilt Rock Viewpoint. Named Kilt Rock because it looks similar to a pleated Kilt, the views are stunning in every direction. And in every weather. To your right, the majestic Mealt Waterfall plummets to the rocky coast below. And to the left, endless Kilt Rock towers over the coast. The moody sky above only adds to the imposing effect.
Quiraing
Next stop is the Quiraing, a spectacular part of the Trotternish ridge situated in the north part of the Isle of Skye. Formed by massive landslide millions of years ago, the Quiraing is the only part of Trotternish that continues to move to this day. The road at the bottom requires repairs every year. We wander amongst the imposing rocky hills and in the drizzling rain, we witness the true, severe beauty of the Misty Isle.
Skye Museum and graveyard
Our next stop, the Skye Museum of Island Life. is a fascinating glimpse into the traditional Skye lifestyle. Here, I find tiny thatched-roof shacks known as ” a black house,” outfitted with traditional tools. The small, self-guided museum offers a wealth of information and can take about an hour to explore.
Next, my Heart of Scotland group makes the journey to the graveyard adjoining the museum. Among the 19th-century burial grounds, we stumble onto an ancient resting stone. Here, a figure of a knight in full fighting gear lays carved in a rock. “The stone is authentic” Kevin explains, “But the person under it is not. “It was stolen from a lost medieval burial ground and placed over the grave of someone who died in the 19th century.” Although this sounds Macabre, apparently a common practice in the day.
The Dunvegan Castle
Perhaps one of the most famous attractions on the Isle of Skye, the Dunvegan castle, is the oldest continuously operating structure on the island. Inhabited by countless generations of the MacLeod (my guide’s) clan, the castle is known as much for its rich history as its beauty.
Continuously restored by the subsequent generations who have lived here, the Dunvegan castle is richly decorated in the style of the late 19th century. The well-manicured castle grounds include several acres of gardens. It takes hours to do a proper tour of the Dunvegan gardens and castle – so this is a great place to spend an entire afternoon on the Isle Skye.
Fairy Pools and the Old Man of Storr
The highlands are known for unpredictable weather, and some of Skye’s most famous landmarks can only be viewed on clear days. Based on the climate that day, the Heart of Scotland guide decides which attractions to visit on Day two. Kevin, a life long resident of the Isle of Skye, encouraged us to come back to Skye one day so that we could see the marvels we didn’t get to see that day – the Fairy Pools and the Old Man of Storr.
Day 3
On the third day of Heart of Scotland’s Isle of Skye tour, we travel from the world famous Loch Ness. We drive past the stunning mountains of Glencoe and eventually back to Edinburgh. Although the journey back to the city takes an entire day, there are plenty more rolling green highlands and sites to see along the way.
Kyleakin village
Our first stop of the day is the Kyleakin Village, located on the east of the Isle of Skye. This sleepy little village is also the home of Castle Moil, an abandoned 15th-century castle. Legend says that the original structure on this site was built for a Norwegian princess nicknamed “Saucy Marry.” All day, she sat at the castle wall. Saucy Marry required a toll from any boats that wanted to use the narrow channel next to the castle. But, if she really liked the ship’s captain she would request other services as payment for passage.
Loch Ness cruise
One of the highlights of Day 3, the Loch Ness Cruise is a bucket list item for many. You may believe you know all about the legend of Loch Ness. However, after you board, the crew will show you several radar images taken earlier this year. Some of the images clearly show 3 very large, moving objects on the bottom of the lake. In addition, there is also the fact that Loch Ness is located on an old fault line and that it is as deep as many parts of the ocean. The water in Loch Ness is so dark that there is no visibility only a few meters below the surface.
Maybe you’ll even be one of the lucky ones who get to see the large moving objects on the radar for yourself. Whatever is down there – whether a giant fish or a sea monster, the mystery remains.
Glencoe
Unable to solve the mystery of Loch Ness, we proceed to our next destination – the mountains of Glencoe. Here, another legend awaits. The Glencoe Massacre is perhaps one of the best-known events in Scottish history. In the 17th century, during ongoing negotiations between the English and the Scottish leaders, the clan of MacDonald spent a few nights hosting English soldiers. The first several days passed without incident, but one night the guests turned violent and began to slaughter members of the clan, in their sleep. 38 people died that night and countless others perished in the wilderness as they attempted to escape. The story of the Massacre of Glencoe has affected the relationship between Scots and English. Later on, the incident made it difficult to open a line of communication.
Today, the National Trust of Scotland cares for Glencoe’s pristine wilderness. Hikes of all lengths and skill levels start from the visitors center. During my Heart of Scotland tour, I take a short hike to get some pictures of the green mountains from a good vantage point.
Loch Lomond National Park
As we make our way towards Edinburgh and past the border that separates the highlands from the lowlands, we drive through the picturesque Loch Lomond National Park. Scottish weather, moody as always, picked this moment to create a clearing in the clouds. In spite of the relatively late afternoon hour, the sun sits far above the horizon. We make our way back to Edinburgh at 7 pm – with plenty of daylight to spare.
Day 1
Although you can explore Skye on a larger tour bus, I opt for the more luxurious 16 seater van option with the Heart of Scotland. “The wee red bus” is more intimate and flexible. We can make unscheduled stops and drive to places larger buses can’t. This added flexibility is important on an island where most roads are only one lane but the traffic goes two ways.
My guide’s name is Kevin. He is a life long resident of Skye and a prominent member of the MacLeod clan, one of Skye’s oldest clan families.
“Scotland is divided into two parts”, Kevin says as we begin the journey out of Edinburgh. “The Highlands and the Lowlands.” I learn that the two areas are different geographically and culturally. In fact, they were always different because the country of Scotland was formed when two ancient continents collided millions of years ago. One continent became the highlands – the other, the lowlands. This explains the change in topography and nature.
Queensferry
Our first stop is the small town of Queensferry. “Here, you’ll see three bridges,” Kevin says. “Built in the 19th, 20th and the 21st centuries respectively. Each a marvel of engineering, in their day.” Established in the 11th century, the first crossing here served to connect the lowlands to the kingdom of Fife. One of the bridges, called the Forth Bridge, was built 125 years ago and today is a UNESCO heritage site. We drive over the middle bridge, open only to buses and vans.
Dunkeld Cathedral and town
Next, we approach the picturesque village of Dunkeld. Centered around Cathedral Church of Dunkeld, this 8th-century village is the first official stop of the day. The Cathedral, constructed in a mixture of Gothic and Norman styles and build over three centuries in the middle ages. The town, charming and sparking is exactly what you might picture when you hear the phrase “traditional Scottish village.” Afterward, we proceed further into the highlands over narrow lanes into the Cairngorms National Park. We drive along the giant Loch Laggan and pause for lunch.
Eilean Donan Castle
As we approach Eilean Donan Castle, the imposing structure towers over the landscape around it. “Build on a site of a medieval castle, this is a clever one-hundred-year-old reconstruction,” Kevin tells the group on the wee red bus. “Castles that were continuously occupied were continuously updated. But Eilean Donan is frozen in time – around the 13th century.” Clever it is indeed. The Castle is also famous. Used as a backdrop for many famous movies – from Elizabeth to the Highlander, the Eilean Donon Castle may be one of the most famous images in Scotland. And touring Elean Donan is like stepping back in time. I found it very different from the modern luxury I would experience in the Dunfield Castle on Day 2 of the Heart of Scotland Isle of Skye tour.
Portree
After a few hours, we approach the Skye bridge – our path to the beautiful misty island, Isle of Skye. We pass the enormous Cuillin mountains and arrive in the colorful and quaint fishing village of Portree. Although accommodations can be hard to come by in Portree, Heart of Scotland takes care of all the arrangments. Kevin drives each one of my fellow travelers their hotel or bed and breakfast and during the long northern evening, we explore Portree.
Day 2
We spend day two exploring the Isle of Skye. It turns out the Isle of Skye’s nickname – the Misty Island, is well earned. Day two on Skye greeted us with relentless mist and occasional rain. Dressed for the weather, I was quite comfortable in the wee red bus – and grateful I didn’t need to navigate the narrow mountain roads. My photographs from the day look like something out of a fairy tale. Covered in mist, on a green backdrop, the romance of Skye can be found in any weather.
Kilt Rock Viewpoint
We start our day in the majestic Kilt Rock Viewpoint. Named Kilt Rock because it looks similar to a pleated Kilt, the views are stunning in every direction. And in every weather. To your right, the majestic Mealt Waterfall plummets to the rocky coast below. And to the left, endless Kilt Rock towers over the coast. The moody sky above only adds to the imposing effect.
Quiraing
Next stop is the Quiraing, a spectacular part of the Trotternish ridge situated in the north part of the Isle of Skye. Formed by massive landslide millions of years ago, the Quiraing is the only part of Trotternish that continues to move to this day. The road at the bottom requires repairs every year. We wander amongst the imposing rocky hills and in the drizzling rain, we witness the true, severe beauty of the Misty Isle.
Skye Museum and graveyard
Our next stop, the Skye Museum of Island Life. is a fascinating glimpse into the traditional Skye lifestyle. Here, I find tiny thatched-roof shacks known as ” a black house,” outfitted with traditional tools. The small, self-guided museum offers a wealth of information and can take about an hour to explore.
Next, my Heart of Scotland group makes the journey to the graveyard adjoining the museum. Among the 19th-century burial grounds, we stumble onto an ancient resting stone. Here, a figure of a knight in full fighting gear lays carved in a rock. “The stone is authentic” Kevin explains, “But the person under it is not. “It was stolen from a lost medieval burial ground and placed over the grave of someone who died in the 19th century.” Although this sounds Macabre, apparently a common practice in the day.
The Dunvegan Castle
Perhaps one of the most famous attractions on the Isle of Skye, the Dunvegan castle, is the oldest continuously operating structure on the island. Inhabited by countless generations of the MacLeod (my guide’s) clan, the castle is known as much for its rich history as its beauty.
Continuously restored by the subsequent generations who have lived here, the Dunvegan castle is richly decorated in the style of the late 19th century. The well-manicured castle grounds include several acres of gardens. It takes hours to do a proper tour of the Dunvegan gardens and castle – so this is a great place to spend an entire afternoon on the Isle Skye.
Fairy Pools and the Old Man of Storr
The highlands are known for unpredictable weather, and some of Skye’s most famous landmarks can only be viewed on clear days. Based on the climate that day, the Heart of Scotland guide decides which attractions to visit on Day two. Kevin, a life long resident of the Isle of Skye, encouraged us to come back to Skye one day so that we could see the marvels we didn’t get to see that day – the Fairy Pools and the Old Man of Storr.
Day 3
On the third day of Heart of Scotland’s Isle of Skye tour, we travel from the world famous Loch Ness. We drive past the stunning mountains of Glencoe and eventually back to Edinburgh. Although the journey back to the city takes an entire day, there are plenty more rolling green highlands and sites to see along the way.
Kyleakin village
Our first stop of the day is the Kyleakin Village, located on the east of the Isle of Skye. This sleepy little village is also the home of Castle Moil, an abandoned 15th-century castle. Legend says that the original structure on this site was built for a Norwegian princess nicknamed “Saucy Marry.” All day, she sat at the castle wall. Saucy Marry required a toll from any boats that wanted to use the narrow channel next to the castle. But, if she really liked the ship’s captain she would request other services as payment for passage.
Loch Ness cruise
One of the highlights of Day 3, the Loch Ness Cruise is a bucket list item for many. You may believe you know all about the legend of Loch Ness. However, after you board, the crew will show you several radar images taken earlier this year. Some of the images clearly show 3 very large, moving objects on the bottom of the lake. In addition, there is also the fact that Loch Ness is located on an old fault line and that it is as deep as many parts of the ocean. The water in Loch Ness is so dark that there is no visibility only a few meters below the surface.
Maybe you’ll even be one of the lucky ones who get to see the large moving objects on the radar for yourself. Whatever is down there – whether a giant fish or a sea monster, the mystery remains.
Glencoe
Unable to solve the mystery of Loch Ness, we proceed to our next destination – the mountains of Glencoe. Here, another legend awaits. The Glencoe Massacre is perhaps one of the best-known events in Scottish history. In the 17th century, during ongoing negotiations between the English and the Scottish leaders, the clan of MacDonald spent a few nights hosting English soldiers. The first several days passed without incident, but one night the guests turned violent and began to slaughter members of the clan, in their sleep. 38 people died that night and countless others perished in the wilderness as they attempted to escape. The story of the Massacre of Glencoe has affected the relationship between Scots and English. Later on, the incident made it difficult to open a line of communication.
Today, the National Trust of Scotland cares for Glencoe’s pristine wilderness. Hikes of all lengths and skill levels start from the visitors center. During my Heart of Scotland tour, I take a short hike to get some pictures of the green mountains from a good vantage point.
Loch Lomond National Park
As we make our way towards Edinburgh and past the border that separates the highlands from the lowlands, we drive through the picturesque Loch Lomond National Park. Scottish weather, moody as always, picked this moment to create a clearing in the clouds. In spite of the relatively late afternoon hour, the sun sits far above the horizon. We make our way back to Edinburgh at 7 pm – with plenty of daylight to spare.
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The first time I approached Eileen Donan Castle my heart rate jumped. For me it had always been the iconic site that summed up the wild beauty of Scotland and I overwhelmed by emotion to see it in real life. Visiting is time travel, like stepping back into the 13th Century. No wonder that so many travel companies use its image to epitomise Scotland.
Thanks so much for reading Jean. It was a gorgeous castle and I loved learning all the history behind it. Skye is a striking place, I hope to be back soon.
Thank you so much for reading Jean! I agree, Eileen Donan is beautiful and it has a fascinating history. And the setting is just stunning. When I visited there was a bagpiper right outside, performing and posing for pictures. It was all so typically Scottish felt like a scene right out of a movie.
Let me start by saying that I don’t believe in ghosts and spirits. I visited Glen Coe a long time ago and there was a really eerie atmosphere that sent tingles up my spine. Glen Coe is one of the places where I have felt a real connection with history.
It’s all so Macbeth. 38 people murdered in their sleep leaves a disturbing legacy. When I visited there was a solitary piper playing a lament on the bag-pipes. That only added to the uneasy atmosphere.
Neither do I – usually. But, something about that eerie mist in the place does make one wonder. The lady at the visitors center told me you can go into Glencoe for several nights and sleep on the mountain. Although I have done these things before, not sure that I would go alone into the wilderness here. :)
You were fortunate to have such a good guide.It makes such a difference to have someone who knows a place and it’s people inside out. I have s friend who has been a tour guide all her life and she says that she’s still learning, picking up knowledge all the time. Often it is the questions that people ask which prompts her to go off and do more research. Having Kevin, with his knowledge of the history and traditions of the MacLeod clan, must have turned a good trip into s brilliant one.
Thanks so much for reading Chris! I got very lucky with Kevin but I believe all their guides are good. I’d like to think I got the best one :). He is also the editor of the MacDougal newspaper, so he really knew his stuff. He shared lots of fascinating information that didn’t even make it into the article. The Scottish people really do know how to share a story :)
Hi Viktoria
It’s really interesting to read your account from the perspective of an American visitor, and I’m sure this will hold appeal with our American readers.
For me, as a Brit, I wouldn’t think twice about driving myself but then “narrow one-lane, two-directional roads” are commonplace in more rural areas here – I drive on them on a pretty much daily basis, so it would never occur to me that this might be an issue.
For someone who is less familiar with our roads, and more usually drives on the other side of the road, I guess this could seem a bit daunting initially. I think if you braved it, you would soon get used to it, but what you have done seems a good compromise.
I think it’s good that you chose a small vehicle. As you say, you can stop more readily, spend a little longer at certain stops if you so wish, and not be at the mercy of a large crowd of people whose wishes may vary wildly.
I’m glad you enjoyed your stay and hope you get to visit again soon, hopefully for a little longer. Three days isn’t really enough to do this vast area justice – on my trip there a few years ago, we spent quite a while just on Skye and I felt we only scratched the service. We went foraging with Skye Ghillie and visited the Isle of Raasay (a close neighbour to Skye) on our trip – both great fun!
Paul
Thank you so much, Paul! It is a privilege to be able to share my experience on A Luxury Travel Blog!
I was really on the fence but I think in the end I made a good decision. I would love to stay longer next time, perhaps I can brave the roads one of these days. In addition to the Isle of Raasay, are there other places in the highlands, you would suggest I explore next time?
Thanks, Viktoria! :-) The Highlands covers a pretty large area all the way from John O’Groats in the north down to south of Fort William, and from west to east: Skye to east of Aviemore. This region of Scotland alone is larger than the whole of Wales, and much of it I’ve still yet to explore!