Review: Queens Hotel, Leeds, UK
Built as a flagship for Leeds railway station in 1937, and enjoying a Grade-II-listed art-deco façade, The Queens has undergone a £16 million transformation that has gently lifted it into the 21st century whilst still retaining its original glamour. It’s a renovation that sees the original art-deco flourishes now sitting alongside modern furniture and local touches that keep the hotel feeling like a city hotel rather than a corporate retrofit. Read on to learn more about our visit.
The welcome
This was my second stay at the hotel and, like last time, we opted to arrive by public transport over the headache of city driving — the hotel’s adjacency to Leeds railway station makes that choice a joy rather than a compromise. Having navigated the lobby’s mix of book-lined nooks and plush seating, the reception team made our arrival go smoothly with a warm, brisk and friendly handover of keycards, before we made our way up the building via the art deco lifts (which also have Grade II-listed status), with their signature pillar-box red doors and striking brass trims.
The room
We stayed in a Superior Family City Square View with a thoughtful 29 m² / 312 ft² layout that was both elegant and practical. The bed was a king-size, draped in crisp white linen and the room had the expected modern conveniences in abundance: an in-room safe, a hairdryer, an ironing board and iron, a mini-fridge, kettle, a Nespresso machine and a neatly presented welcome tray.
There’s also a separate sofa (which can convert into a sofa bed, hence this having the option to be a family room) and a compact desk area — handy if you need to work between exploring. For families or longer stays the extra square metres are useful; for couples wanting a touch more space, the Superior City Square rooms are worth the premium.
The bathroom
Our bathroom favoured black-and-white patterned wall panels rather than an army of tiles, a modern alternative that gave it a bold, vibrant look. The rainfall shower also had a second detachable head, and the toiletries came from Argentum, a luxury British skincare and fragrance brand.
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The facilities
The hotel revitalised its dining this year with the opening of Cinnamon Kitchen, led by Chef Vivek Singh — a restaurant and bar deliberately inspired by the grandeur of historic Indian railway first-class waiting rooms, which neatly echoes the hotel’s own railway provenance.
The menu blends regional Indian techniques across twelve states with local British and Yorkshire ingredients; starters such as a salt-baked beetroot hummus paired with Wensleydale and marinated endive illustrate that fusion in practice rather than name only.
Other dishes we enjoyed included an aromatic Lucknowi chicken biryani served with burhani raita; masala grilled salmon crowned with a dried-lime chilli crumble and a crisp celeriac salad, the house black lentils, and – last but by no means least – the visually impressive grilled king prawns in a Colombo curry.
Other examples of the kitchen’s willingness to play with British and Indian cuisine is the excellent lamb rogan josh shepherd’s pie, filled with both minced lamb and larger pieces of meat, and packed with flavour.
For dessert, the chocolate and coconut caramel mousse or the garam masala crème brûlée both provide a snug, satisfying finish.
Cinnamon Kitchen is already deservedly collecting praise and has been shortlisted for ‘Best New Opening’ at this year’s R200 Awards.
Breakfast is served in the basement as a buffet affair — with a pleasing local nod in the form of rhubarb juice among the usual continental and cooked options. That tiny flourish is a wink to West Yorkshire’s ‘Rhubarb Triangle’ – a unique area famous for its cultivation of early forced rhubarb.
Finally, the hotel also houses a ballroom — a restored space that can play host to conferences, weddings and the like.
The location
Location is, for the Queens, its most persuasive argument. Perched on City Square (see the view from our room below) with a private entrance to Leeds station, it’s the quickest possible interface between rail and room — perfect for short city escapes.
Leeds itself has shifted in the last decade from a hardworking commercial centre to a vibrant cultural and culinary hub: boutique shopping in the Corn Exchange, galleries like the Henry Moore Institute and the Hepworth nearby, and an increasingly confident restaurant scene make the city a credible destination for luxury travellers looking for compact, high-quality experiences.
We saw a show at Leeds City Varieties — a Victorian music hall, with seating for less than 500. It’s an extremely intimate venue which brings performers and the audience into close quarters.
Beyond theatre, the arcades, galleries, Michelin Guide restaurants and independent retailers around the city centre are all within an easy walk.
Other nice touches
There were a few small comforts that didn’t go unnoticed. For example, complimentary still water was provided and the wardrobe housed a couple of soft waffle gowns.
The hotel also offers a sustainability option: a small green tree you can hang outside your door to opt out of daily housekeeping — a simple way to reduce environmental impact yet still offer fresh towels if needed.
The cost
Double rooms come in from around £105 per night out of season, Superior rooms from about £145, and suites from £225. The Presidential Suite — with its private terrace — starts from roughly £634.
The best bit
The best bit is the sense of occasion The Queens manages to sustain without feeling stagey. It sits at the central hinge of Leeds — a building that looks and acts like a civic drawing-room. You are simultaneously in the city’s engine room (train station at your feet) and a refuge from its pace (the hotel’s rooms are calm and comfortable). That duality — grand without grandstanding — is its most winning trait.
The final verdict
If you prize art-deco character, easy access by rail and a modern restaurant that takes culinary risks with city-centre convenience, The Queens is a polished choice. The renovation has been respectfully handled: original features are celebrated and modern comforts added in ways that feel considered rather than an after-thought. Our Superior City Square room was roomy and quietly luxurious; the new Cinnamon Kitchen adds a memorable dining reason to stay; and the location makes almost everything in Leeds within an easy, enjoyable radius.
Dislcosure: Our stay was sponsored by The Queens Hotel, with the support of Visit Leeds.
Paul Johnson
Paul Johnson is Editor of A Luxury Travel Blog and has worked in the travel industry for more than 30 years. He is Winner of the Innovations in Travel ‘Best Travel Influencer’ Award from WIRED magazine. In addition to other awards, the blog has also been voted “one of the world’s best travel blogs” and “best for luxury” by The Telegraph.
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There aren’t that many hotels around that prompt you to say that they’ve got a sense of occasion. That’s something worth noting for future visits to Leeds.
The hotel has character and style, with much of its history still evidence post refurbishment – something that’s sadly missing from many newer hotels nowadays.
There was a time when if you paid £100 for a hotel room you thought you were paying the earth. How things have changed!
Nowadays, around the £100 is excellent value for a hotel like Queens.
Hi Janet… that’s inflation for you! 😀 The rate is exceptional for a hotel of this calibre. Of course, don’t expect this to be the norm, though – this is a low season rate. At times of higher demand, the rate will be of course be much higher.
It’s great to see a hotel restaurant that doesn’t play safe and doesn’t settle for a bland international menu.
I’m intrigued to try a menu that travels across 12 Indian states and as I couldn’t name 12 Indian states I’d be even more intrigued to learn what they are.
There are in fact 28 states in India. The menu is inspired by a culinary journey across 12 of them – along the route of the Himsagar Express train.
The complete list of the 12 states on the Himsagar Express route are:
Jammu & Kashmir (or Jammu and Kashmir Union Territory)
Punjab
Haryana
Delhi (National Capital Territory)
Uttar Pradesh
Rajasthan
Madhya Pradesh
Maharashtra
Telangana
Andhra Pradesh
Kerala
Tamil Nadu
We’re really talking about another era here aren’t we? Railway hotels and Art Deco architecture, very different from today’s Travel Lodge School of Architecture! Personally, I’ve always had a fondness for an imposing Art Deco building.
Interesting fact for you: Leeds has more listed buildings than any other city in England outside of London, which means a significant portion of its architecture is legally protected.
If you’ve not been to Leeds recently it’s a great place for a weekend break, it’s buzzing with regeneration and it’s shaken off the flat-capped pigeon fancier image – though if you still want authenticity you’ll find pigeon lofts and rhubarb growing on the allotments.
Although I haven’t stayed at Queens Hotel from reading this review it does seem the place to stay for being at the hub of the city.
It’s a great spot, Grace… I highly recommend staying there on your next visit! 🙂
Thanks for the list of Indian States. I’m not even sure which ones I’ve been to but I reckon it’s about 5. Never quite sure where I am when I’m in India!!!
Following the route of the Himsagar Express is a great original idea for a culinary adventure.
You’re welcome, Jeff! 😀 And yes, ties in with The Queen’s railway connections nicely also! 😉
It’s very good value. Accounts would be impressed if I’m only claiming something that begins with a “1” for a night’s accommodation on a business trip to Leeds.
That maybe depends on how many digits follow the “1”, Diana… 🤣
If you go to Leeds whether you are 9 or 90 you’ve got to spend some time at the Royal Armouries Museum, the building looks like a castle on the outside and it feels like a castle on the inside.
It’s packed with medieval swords, shields, lances and every type of gun too. Everyday there are plenty of demonstrations and talks too.
It’s one of those museums where you have to think ahead and plan, you don’t want to miss out on anything.
Hi Tom… I visited when it first opened (back in the mid-90s, I think it was), but haven’t been back since. I really should go as I’m sure it must have changed considerably since…
Leeds is a strong contender for a weekend break, particularly when you’ve got a luxurious hotel for a base.
Most definitely, Sue… there’s so much going on – have a look at https://www.visitleeds.co.uk/whats-on/
I’m with Diana on Queens as a place to stay for business. Too many of the characterless hotel rooms I stay in are too close in style to the meeting rooms where I’m imprisoned all day. I’m almost expecting a PowerPoint presentation to be projected onto the wall.
That’s a very valid point, Mo… always a pleasure to stay somewhere with a little more character.
My partner cooks Indian 2 or 3 times a week and has a big collection of Indian cookery books. I doubt that even he could do dishes from 12 Indian regions. Once he reads this post he’ll be wanting to book in for a meal.
This was definitely Indian with a difference, Caroline… I’m sure your partner would love the experience. 🙂
Today’s hotel architects and hotel designers could learn a lot from the grandeur, space and sheer style of this beautiful hotel.
Absolutely, Wendy!
Leeds wasn’t my first choice uni but that didn’t stop me having a great three years there. It would be good to go back and stay at a hotel that’s so very different to my slummy student house. It wasn’t slummy when we moved in, somehow it went down hill over our years there.
Our younger son is at the University now also, and loving it and everything the city has to offer. 🙂
The Medical Museum was on our list of things to do when we had a midweek break to the city, unfortunately we ran out of time and never got round to it. There was far more to do in Leeds than we’d thought there was. If we go back for a return visit we’ll know where to stay next time.
This is one of those places where you think, “If only these walls could talk”.
Over the last 80 odd years there must have been a number of the country’s great and good who stayed here – as well as some who were far from great and far from good.
The hotel must have an astoundingly rich history.
The comment on expenses reminds me of an ex-colleague who claimed for a 4 figure sum for 2 nights in London, sandwiching one client lunch between 2 extravagant nights in hotels. Now you’ll understand why he is an ex-colleague.