Review: Das Schindler, Innsbruck, Austria

In Innsbruck, like in many European cities nowadays, some of the best culinary secrets are not immediately apparent. It’s not always obvious where restaurants are located, even when you have the address. The ground floors are typically dominated by retail outlets, whilst the upper floors are more commonly occupied by professional businesses.

The Michelin-recommended Das Schindler is no exception and is hidden away on the first floor of a mixed-use building on Innsbruck’s vibrant Maria-Theresien-Straße, shared with two law firms.

The food

We loved the food at Das Schindler which brought together international innovation and classic Austrian culinary traditions. Our experience had us enjoying upscale modern Tyrolean cuisine, starting with homemade bread served alongside rich olive oil and flaky sea salt before the main event.

Between us, we had a good mix of starters, including my own beautifully-balanced Schindler’s Steak Tartare made from organic Angus beef, topped with a crisp herb salad perfectly golden ‘sunny side up’ quail egg, and served with toast.

The lobster thermidor was a real treat – gratinated split Canadian lobster served with a light Mumbai curry, fresh broccolini, and a rich, golden gruyère crust.

The watermelon tataki stole the show in its colourful appearance, and consisted of flame-seared with a creamy sheep’s milk cheese, sweet marinated honeydew, and a subtle touch of Sichuan pepper. This was refreshing, as watermelon invariably is, but also sweet, savoury, and with a touch of heat, all the same time.

Completing our starters was a luxuriously creamy Parmigiano Reggiano and basil soup, with a beautifully seared scallop at its centre.

For our mains, we tried the spring water salmon trout fillet from Schwaz, 30 kilometres to the east of Innsbruck, which was cooked en papillote, and served still wrapped in the parchment it was cooked in, along with spring onions, peppers, potatoes, and a vibrant mojo sauce. The fish was delicate and had retained its natural sweetness.

A somehwat meatier option was the Cape Malay swordfish that had been marinated in a Far Eastern style and was served on a poppadom with sautéed North Tyrolean vegetables and a surprising twist of Tyrolean peach.

There was a specials board on the evening of our visit that included venison, a ribeye steak served with bacon and green beans, and a truffle pasta.

I went for the game which was perfectly cooked and so tender, but robust in flavour. The mushroom risotto and pak choi was a perfect accompaniment.

Chanterelles – Homemade East Tyrolean Schlipfkrapfen (messelune) / chanterelles / parsley / Grana

My wife had the homemade East Tyrolean schlipfkrapfen (traditional half-moon pasta) with chanterelles – quite an earthy dish with fresh parsley, and shaved grana.

Between us we had the ‘chocolate and raspberries’ (chocolate San Sebastian cheesecake with a raspberry sorbet and crunchy pistachios) and the Schindler’s very own crème brûlée with salted caramel ice cream

A few sweet treats at the end rounded off what had been a truly memorable meal.

The chef

In an industry where chefs are known to regularly move from one job to the next, it’s refreshing to hear that Chef de Cuisine Thomas Knittl has been at the helm of Das Schindler since 2017. He uses modern, gentle cooking techniques to enhance the natural flavours of the quality ingredients the restaurant uses. There’s a strict avoidance of artificial additives or flavour enhancers, as well as mass-produced meats. As someone from South Tyrol (northern Italy) himself, he sources both local and organic ingredients, supporting domestic agriculture, something that has been duly recognised with the prestigious Bewusst Tirol and AMA Gastrosiegel seals of quality.

The ambience

The greeting when we arrived could not have been warmer. To one side was a striking bar, whilst the rest of the space was reserved for relaxed dining. Even though we didn’t dine all that early, it was quite quiet when we first arrived but steadily filled up throughout the evening, transforming the venue into a lively, bustling hub.

The cost

Most starters range between €10 and €25, main courses from €25 to €50, and desserts around €10 to €15.

The final verdict

Achieving the right balance between a sophisticated dining venue and a relaxed setting isn’t always easy, but somehow it’s exactly what Das Schindler achieves. The food is thoughfully sourced, with an emphasis on organic, local ingredients, and there’s an inventive fusion of Tyrolean cuisine with international flavours and techniques that makes every dish a treat. Next time you’re in Innsbruck make sure you find this hidden gem and give it a try for yourself.

Disclosure: Our trip was sponsored by Innsbruck Tourism.