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Visiting the Isle of Eigg, Scotland, UK

We had looked into visiting the small isles of Rum, Eigg, Muck and Canna but, on studying the Calmac timetable more closely, realised that this wasn’t possible as a day visit from the mainland. Although the ferry operator does run a service to the islands from Mallaig, there is only 10 minutes or so between each stop, meaning that you would have to stay overnight if you wanted to spend any time on any of the islands. An excellent alternative option, though, is available through Arisaig Marine Ltd. on their MV Sheerwater vessel. Since we were staying at Arisaig House, this proved to be an even more convenient option for us. And what’s more, they were able to take our bikes on board, too, allowing us to explore the island on two wheels. MV Sheerwater with bikes We set sail from Arisaig harbour, bound for the Isle of Eigg 10 miles away, but knowing our journey time could be dependent on what we saw along the way. As we departed, we passed some tiny, uninhabited islands – some with idyllic-looking beaches, others with the occasional seal basking in the sun. En route to Eigg Eigg, although visible from Arisaig, Eigg gradally came more and more into view, with the Sgurr (seen here on the left) being its most distinctive landmark. Eigg And then it happened. A minke whale broke the surface up ahead. We diverted slightly off course to take a closer look. This was only the second time that month that the skipper had seen whale so we felt very lucky and priviliged, particularly since it came very close indeed to the boat, allowing me to capture this shot. These beautiful creatures typically live for around 30 to 50 years, and sometimes to as old as 60, and are mostly likely to be seen in this part of the world from July through to September. Whale off Eigg With that excitement over, we pressed on and landed at Galmisdale where our arrival was marked by a piper to welcome everyone on board to the island.  In Galmisdale, there’s a community building, An Laimhrig, which is home to the island’s shop and Post Office, craft shop and tea room. From here walkers can climb to the Sgurr in about 2 hours, and be treated to wonderful views of the other Small Isles. We instead took to our bikes and decided to do a little explorin of our own. Cycling on Eigg Our first stop was the Catheral Caves – also known as the Massacre Cave – which was the site of a gruesome incident in the 16th Century when the MacDonalds and MacLeods had an ongoing fued. The entire population of Eigg (almost 400 people at the time) was killed when the MacLeods lit a fire at the entrance to the cave in which the islanders were hiding. Eigg coastline The view was beautiful so it was hard to imagine what an awful scene it must have been here all those years ago. Happier, more prosperous times didn’t really return to the island until the end of the 19th Century, helped by its kelp industry. Eigg cycling We returned to the main road and headed further along before coming to a standing stone, close to the island’s centre. It’s also close to here that you’ll pass the one and only school on the island and, if you head a little further still, you can visit the ‘singing sands’ (Tràigh a’ Bhìgeil) at Cleadale, a stunning musical quartz beach. Standing stone on Eigg The air quality is obviously good here because the lichen is thriving. Lichen on Eigg Before we knew it, it was time for us to return to Galmisdale. We needed to ensure we didn’t miss the boat else we’d be stuck on the island for the next 24 hours without accommodation, so we headed back with plenty of time to spare and had lunch at the cafe before the MV Sheerwater returned with passengers from the island of Muck. MV Sheerwater Once again, we loaded up the bikes. Loading bikes on to MV Sheerwater 2 On our return journey, we were treated to a brief sighting of porpoises but they didn’t break the surface for long enough for me to get a worthwhile picture unfortunately. Nevertheless, our visit to Eigg had been a very enjoyable and successful one. There’s very little on the island if truth be known, but at the same time that is also part of its charm. Disclosure: The above formed part of a luxury Scotland mountain bike trip sponsored by Caledonian MacBrayne, Ridgeback and Madison.

Paul Johnson

Paul Johnson is Editor of A Luxury Travel Blog and has worked in the travel industry for more than 30 years. He is Winner of the Innovations in Travel ‘Best Travel Influencer’ Award from WIRED magazine. In addition to other awards, the blog has also been voted “one of the world’s best travel blogs” and “best for luxury” by The Daily Telegraph.

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  1. Wonderful.. Nice Pictures. Wonderful view while biking on that place…
    Good post, sometime I imagine when I would be there for couple a day to enjoy landscape and real nature life.
    Thanks for sharing

  2. Funilly enough you are not the first person who recommended Arisaig and Eigg to me this weekend.
    As I live in Glasgow I must go there this summer – I especially like the small boat as I imagine being that close to the whale must have been a fantastic experience.
    I have witnessed basking sharks off Islay and Jura but that was from high up on the Calmac ferry.
    Thanks Malky

  3. Thanks for dropping by, Malcolm. And yes, it was great to see it so close. We saw a basking shark off Coll once, on another occasion and – because we were travelling independent in a rib boat – we were able to go right up to it. Amazing creatures… look so fierce and prehistoric, yet are harmless of course to humans.

  4. Many thanks for this. We have just visited Rum and Canna and want to visit the other two Small Isles but find it hard to harmonise Calmac ferry times. Great you can take bikes! Loved the pick of the community under An Sgurr.

  5. Hi Mark

    Thanks for dropping by to comment. Yes, at the time of our visit, you really needed to overnight on at least one of the islands, otherwise it was impossible to spend any sensible amount of time on more than one island with the Calmac ferry timetable. Would be worth looking at again, though, as the timetable isn’t necessarily the same as when we went, and it might be worth looking into private modes of transport. If you ask around, you might just find someone with a boat who’s willing to help… the islanders tend to be friendly like that!


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