All aboard Mexico’s only luxury train: The Chepe Express

Travelling by train is very different to other forms of transport. You could even say it’s a luxury of sorts. Unlike sitting on a plane, where you might gaze ahead at your route map or watch a movie, a journey by train is somehow quite different. It encourages you to look around a little more and I believe you consequently find yourself more immersed in the experience. And an excellent case in point is the Chepe Express Route that runs from the town of Creel to the Pacific coast of Mexico, crossing the Tarahumara Sierra in the process.

Creel can be found in Chihuahua, the largest state in Mexico, comparable in size to the UK. Arguably Mexico’s best kept travel secret, Chihuahua is a world waiting to be discovered, with spectacular canyons, rivers, forests and UNESCO World Heritage archaeological sites.

And at the relaxing, pine-scented mountain town of Creel, about 7,700 feet above sea level in the western sierra of northern Mexico, you’ll find yourself in the heartland of the Rarámuri people – the legendary ultra-runners who tackle massive distances in thin sandals made from old car tyres. Rather fittingly, the word word ‘Rarámuri’ means light-footed, and the people have a deep connection to the land that is reflected in their traditions and crafts. Visiting their communities offers a glimpse into a way of life that has endured for centuries.

One of Creel’s main attractions is the nearby San Ignacio Mission, one of the most tranquil and rewarding visits of the journey, often paired with excursions to the Valley of the Monks, the lake Arareco and other sites very closely related to the Rarámuri people.

And it’s from Creel that the Chepe Express – Mexico’s only luxury train – winds its way down to the Pacific coast, covering around 350 kilometres of track. To truly appreciate this rail experience, travel First Class and enjoy exclusive access to the open air terrace and the Urike restaurant.

About two hours in, the train will come to a stop at Divisadero where everyone gets off. You absolutely have to as well, and walk right to the edge of the platform where you’ll find the ground seemingly just vanishes. Three massive canyons—Urique, Tararecua, and the main Copper Canyon—all converge into one dizzying, jagged abyss. They say it’s four times bigger than the Grand Canyon.

Once the whistle blows, and no doubt with your jaw still open wide in amazement, it’s time to get back on board. This is an opportunity to try out the Urike dining car with its expansive glass sides. There is something delightfully surreal about enjoying a meal and sipping a surprisingly decent Mexican red wine, while a sheer vertical cliff face that has stood for millions of years glides past about two inches from your left shoulder.

The descent through Chihuahua is equally dramatic, perhaps made even more so if you have an interest in engineering since the train rattles over high bridges, plunges into pitch-black tunnels, and quite literally hugs the lip of a cliff.

In Cerocahui, another highlight of the journey, you can visit a boarding school run by nuns where Rarámuri girls study. You can also take walks to viewpoints like Cerro del Gallego, which offer striking views of the Urique Canyon. Here, the connection to rural life and the local community feels more personal.

The landscape as you cross into Sinaloa state is dominated by thick, humid, subtropical green valleys and the temperature in the carriage starts to rise. By the time the wheels grind to a halt in El Fuerte, the Alpine chill is completely gone.

This old Spanish colonial town is characterised by historic buildings and stone archways. At just 300 feet above sea level, the heat is much heavier and palm trees are commonplace. It feels a million miles away from the mountain air of Creel.

The final section of the Chepe Express Route is a flat run through farmland out to Los Mochis near the Sea of Cortez. Stepping off at the coast is in stark contrast to the start of the journey. It feels like you’ve lived through three different seasons in a single afternoon. That’s why travelling by train – and particularly travelling the Chepe Express Route – is such an immersive experience.

It’s one that enables you to appreciate the huge scale of Mexico and, being able to do this at a relaxed pace, is possibly the biggest luxury of all. Not only that, but the route also offers connections to complementary destinations along the Sea of Cortez and the Baja California Peninsula.

Disclosure: This post is sponsored by ¡Ah, Chihuahua!