Review: Das Brahms, Innsbruck, Austria

A short walk to Innsbruck’s university district took us to one of the city’s most unlikely restaurant locations. Das Brahms can be found at the Haus der Musik, an Innsbruck centre for modern culture and education, situated just across from the Hofburg and adjuacent to the Imperial Gardens. You could say its the cultural heart of the city and there, on the ground floor of the Haus der Musik, is a restaurant effortlessly pairing modern Austrian gastronomy with international influences. It’s a concept that is known in German-speaking Europe as “Kulturgastronomie” – a culinary service combined with an arts and culture venue. Although we weren’t attending an event at the centre, restaurants such as Das Brahms can often serve as public meeting points before, during, and after events.

The food

The menu was surprisingly concise. But we didn’t see this a bad thing – more a signal of confidence of what was on offer. After all, it’s not uncommon for the best dining establishments to have limited menus.

We began by sharing three starters. The peach and cucumber burrata was a vibrant opening, where the rich creaminess of the cheese was brightened by fresh fruit and balanced by a warming drizzle of chilli oil and basil.

The beef tartar arrived meticulously assembled, topped with a quail egg, crisp tramezzini, red onion, and encircled by a smooth Pommery mayonnaise that added a subtle grain-mustard tang.

We also shared a falafel salad, which offered a hearty mix of crisp tomatoes, cucumber, carrots, lamb’s lettuce, and a delightfully creamy Austrian potato salad.

The main course menu was split into three distinct categories: Meatless, Oceans and Rivers, and From the Butcher. We opted to explore selections from the first two.

From the Meatless section, the garganelli pasta was tossed in a fragrant basil pesto and complemented by sharp pecorino, sweet sun-dried tomatoes, and toasted pecans for a satisfying crunch.

My favourite dish of all – from Oceans and Rivers – was the octopus cooked to perfection and served with savoury chorizo, crunchy panko, roasted potatoes, and a chipotle-lime aioli that delivered a fiery, vibrant kick.

Also from this section of the menu was the equally well-executed grilled fillet of salmon, set atop a silky pea risotto with glazed peas, fresh Afilla cress, with a subtle aniseed note thanks to an airy Pernod foam.

While we didn’t order from From the Butcher, this section featured tempting traditional and modern meat dishes, ranging from classic Wiener Schnitzel (breaded veal cutlet served with potato salad and lamb’s lettuce) to slow-cooked Duroc pig spare ribs accompanied by baked potatoes, corn on the cob, and sour cream.

To finish, we ordered two desserts to share. The pickled gooseberries provided a wonderfully sharp contrast to a sweet crumble, smooth vanilla ice cream, and crisp meringue.

We also couldn’t resist the Eispalatschinke—a quintessential Austrian favourite consisting of a crêpe stuffed with vanilla ice cream, generously finished with crème Chantilly, toasted almonds, and a rich caramel sauce.

The chef

At Das Brahms, there is no one individual that is publicly singled out and named as executive head chef. Instead, a collaborative approach has been adopted. The Kulturgastronomie direction for the restaurant is led by seasoned Innsbruck restaurateurs Edwin Gruber (owner of the Lichtblick restaurant that we visited last year and Walter Lukas (managing director of Studio 21).

The ambience

We were very warmly welcomed on arrival. Since we were visiting on a warm, pleasant evening, the sleek indoor dining room remained quiet with guests naturally gravitating to the outdoor terrace instead. Dining al fresco permitted us to soak up the last of the late-summer sunshine while enjoying the open-air atmosphere of the cultural quarter.

The cost

Prices are extremely reasonable given the high standards and central location, with starters generally ranging between €15 and €20, main courses between €20 and €35, and desserts coming in at just under €10 each.

The final verdict

We thoroughly enjoyed our evening at Das Brahms. The premium cultural location was made all the more special given that we were able to dine outside, alongside many other diners in a relaxed and informal setting. And, despite a limited menu, the food was as tasty as any we have had in Innsbruck. I’d return in a shot for the octopus alone!

Disclosure: Our trip was sponsored by Innsbruck Tourism.