Brunch at San Ysidro Ranch, Santa Barbara, California

A late landing at LAX and an early start to collect our rental car were followed by a relaxed drive along the coast towards Santa Barbara. It was a pleasure to have swapped the cabin air for the warm climate of Southern California but we were too early to check into our accommodation, so we’d decided in advance that we would visit San Ysidro Ranch for brunch. And what a great decision that proved to be.

San Ysidro Ranch has enjoyed many an accolade over the years and sits at the base of the Santa Ynez Mountains, hidden away on the outskirts of Santa Barbara, far removed from the downtown area. Perhaps it’s no wonder that the likes of Winston Churchill, and John and Jackie Kennedy have stayed here, escaping the eyes of the world.

When we left the road and followed the lush driveway to San Ysidro Ranch, the fatigue from our flight quickly eased. The valet took our keys and we walked into air scented with jasmine, citrus and lavender. We followed a path, passing a guitarist who played softly under a parasol. We immediately had a sense that we had arrived at a special place.

We were led through an airy lounge area to a terrace where diners were alread seated. One of the beauties of the Southern California climate is the ability to eat outdoors in the Summer months, day or night.

Whilst we perused the brunch menu, we were provided with Champagne and some pastries. I generally don’t drink at all if I’m driving but it was our anniversary, and we were just 15 minutes from our hotel, so I allowed myself a half glass.

Sitting on the stone terrace in the late morning sun, our brunch began with two dishes that highlighted the importance of quality ingredients. The Dungeness Crab Cake was crispy, packed with crab and served on a bed of sweet corn and baby zucchini. Pea shoots and circus frisée added a slight bitterness to balance the corn, and an avocado salsa verde finished the dish with its acidity.

The Sicilian Burrata with Prosciutto Ruliano was also tasty, and placed on a bed of arugula pesto, with extra virgin olive oil and fresh heirloom tomatoes. Aged prosciutto topped the dish, alongside a piece of crisped ciabatta, with Bronte pistachios and watercress giving it a final crunch.

Between the four of us, our mains included the pan‑seared Pacific Halibut which arrived with a crisp, browned crust and tender flaky fish inside. Alongside it were Hope Ranch mussels (from just 20 minutes along the coast) and braised Napa cabbage and pickled sweet peppers. A light broth made with cilantro, lemongrass and coconut curry added a delicious warmth that didn’t overpower the halibut.

Then there was the buttermilk fried chicken and waffles – a dish seemingly adopted by California’s restaurant scene from its African American and Southern soul food origins. The chicken had a well‑seasoned coating that crackled when cut while the meat beneath stayed juicy, and the dish was finished with a country gravy and proper Vermont maple syrup.

We also ordered the smoked salmon Benedict, which rested on a crisp Yukon Gold potato rosti. – satisfyingly crunchy while the salmon, creamy avocado and wild arugula gave the dish substance. A smooth Meyer lemon hollandaise was drizzled on top, citrusy enough to keep the dish from becoming too rich.

We were briefly distracted from our food as a tiny hummingbird appeared beside our table, hovering inches away as it fed from a tropical hibiscus overhead. It lasted only a few moments but was a lovely little interlude.

For dessert we enjoyed the Grand Marnier crème brûlée served with fresh seasonal berries to balance its richness, and the signature SYR profiterole filled with cream and topped with Tahitian vanilla bean ice cream and a Valrhona chocolate sauce. A lovely gesture was that the dishes for myself and my wife each came with a small chocolate plaque that read “Happy Anniversary”. At some point during communications, I must have mentioned it was our anniversary… I’d forgotten (that I’d mentioned it, not the anniversary!), but the team at San Ysidro Ranch had clearly taken note.

Just when we thought we’d finished, the staff kindly gave us a bag of freshly baked treats to take away with us, and we were invited to explore the gardens prior to our departure.

The gardens happen to be where Laurence Olivier and Vivien Leigh married in 1940. In fact, there have been a number of high profile weddings held at the resort, including those of Gwyneth Paltrow and Chris Martin, and Chris Pratt and Katherine Schwarzenegger.

The gardens are quite simply stunning. Goodness knows how many staff it takes for its upkeep. Words hardly do justice to the grounds; hopefully the photographs below offers a glimpse into why the setting is so captivating.

We must have spent the best part of an hour wandering around, admiring the many flowers, plants and shrubs. The cottages, many covered in foliage seemed hidden among the gardens.

San Ysidro Ranch has spent decades perfecting the art of refined escape, and our afternoon was proof that the magic remains entirely intact. By the time our car was brought round, California had officially welcomed us in style.

Disclosure: Our visit was sponsored by San Ysidro Ranch.